Review - Sukin Purely Ageless Pro Intensive Rejuvenating Serum
Newly launched by Sukin around April or May this year, this serum contains one of the trendiest ingredient "bakuchiol" and is claimed to be a "natural alternative to retinol".
Claims
Our Intensive Rejuvenating Serum features Bakuchiol, a natural alternative to Retinol, with Yellow Calla Lily Extract and Hyaluronic Acid. Clinically proven to visibly firm and plump skin in just 14 days, it will leave your skin visibly smoother and younger-looking.
Ingredient
Bakuchiol - this serum is all about bakuchiol! So let's focus on it. Is there any basis on which the claim "natural alternative to retinol" is made?
The short answer is yes. Bakuchiol was first claimed to have "retinol-like" function by a manufacturer study in 2014. So it's not new, but also not that exciting because it was not an independent study. And all eyes were on this ingredient again when an independent study claimed that both bakuchiol (0.5%, twice daily) and retinol (0.5%, once daily) can significantly reduce wrinkle surface area and hyperpigmentation. The same study also reports that bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol.
It sounds very promising.
My experience
Before asked to trial the Sukin serum, I had been using a retinol serum once a night and I found it to be very, very effective. Retinol made my skin feels smoother, looks visibly brighter, and my skin simply looks better overall.
Because of that constant comparison between retinol and bakuchiol, I dropped my retinol altogether and then started using the Sukin serum twice a day, observing the difference in my skin before and after the switch very carefully.
The serum is overall very pleasant to use. Some positives are:
smells downright delicious. I am hopeless in describing scents but I suspect there is some sort of fruit fragrance
great consistency. Easy to absorb
seems to be a good hydrator for me. It was a transition from autumn to winter when I used it but I didn't have any signs of dehydration
affordable
Now the bad news: it is just not retinol. In fact, far from retinol. I found that my skin has lost its glow and evenness over the course of 5-6 weeks which coincided with the use of this serum. That said, I genuinely do not think this serum has made my skin worse. It was simply because I was no longer using retinol. Retinol made a real difference to my skin (that was obvious from the first 3-4 weeks of starting retinol) and this "natural alternative" just doesn't cut it. Had I not been told that bakuchiol is a retinol alternative I would have rated it much higher.
There could be many reasons for the lack of effectiveness. For example, the concentration of bakuchiol in this serum is unknown. So it could be that bakuchiol is effective but the concentration in this serum was not enough to give a visible effect. Because of this, I would not write off bakuchiol completely. However, at the end of the day, retinol is backed up by years of studies and evidence, whereas bakuchiol does not have that credibility yet.
I also found that when I was using the Sukin serum, other skincare and makeup layers seemed to pill and ball up, which was surprising given how quickly this serum absorbed. I had trouble applying all my usual layers (ideally, I would like apply a facial oil, a hyaluronic acid, a moisturiser, a sunscreen and then foundation) so I had to cut that back temporarily. I am quite certain that the problem wasn't with my other layers because that pilling stopped after I finished the serum.
It is probably true though, that bakuchiol is less likely to cause irritation. When I first started using retinol, my skin experienced dry patches and minor peeling for 1-2 weeks. Although Sukin's website contained a statement saying that skin will take time to adjust, my first "dose" was 5 big drops of the serum and had been consistently using it that way twice a day until it was finished. My skin did not require adjusting.
For those who are intolerant to retinol by all means give it a go! But for existing retinol users, I am afraid you might be disappointed like me.
Full ingredient list
Water (Aqua), Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Bakuchiol, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Zantedeschia Elliottiana Flower Extract (Yellow Calla Lily), Davidsonia Jerseyana Fruit Extract (Davidson Plum), Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Gl ycine Soja (Soybean) Oil, Lysolecithin, Sclerotium Gum, Pullulan, Xanthan Gum, Silica, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Citric Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Fragrance (Parfum)*, Linalool**, Citronellol**, Limonene**, Geraniol**. *Natural Fragrance **Component of Natural Fragrance
The products was originally received as part of Mama Mia trial team. A separate review based on a short official trial has already been submitted to Mama Mia. I have no obligation to publish this detailed follow up review. My opinion is honest.
About me
Makeup artist and hair stylist based in Sydney. Founder of the well-known award-winning bridal specialist team Faces Makeup & Hair. Beauty junkie with an obsession for skincare.